![]() ![]() ![]() If I were only using 1.6X, and wanted as compact a macro as possible, the 60mm might be the ideal choice. Even if it were usable on FF, the length is generally too short for my tastes (and subjects). I've opted not to get the 60mm, because it's an EF-S lens and I still use film cameras, plus plan to use FF digital in the future. It's just way too long on those cameras, definitely not handholdable. I also have th 180 Macro, it almost never sees use on my 1.6X D-SLRs. The 100mm is my most used macro lens in my Canon kit. It's a great lens and very handholdable, especially when using flash with it. I currently the 100mm Macro, along with about a half dozen other macro lenses in several different systems. What works best for me might not for you, but here's what I use: There are many ways to do macro work and it's mostly a matter of figuring out what's most helpful to you, does what you need it to do, and is most convenient and within your budget. Try hand-holding a macro lens at high magnifications on a subject in deep shade. But, it seems to work reasonably well for me on sunny days. Limits your options if you try a reasonably fast shutter speed for hand-holding (say,ġ/500) while using high-speed flash synch (which cuts down on power intensity from theįlash). Tell from these little web images, but the percentage of 'keepers' is lower than if a tripodĪnother thing to keep in mind is that ringflashes generally are not very powerful, which They're quite sharp, although you can't really The insects often don't have the tolerance, for setting up a tripod. Photographing dragonflies with a ringflash: as someone said earlier, you often don't have I've hand-held my 180 Tamron frequently when No, not absolutely necessary, but it helps. I guess that with the 180 mm a tripod is absolutely necessary, even with a ring flash? Incidenatlly on the 5D I use the alternative matt focussing screen that is much, much better for judging accurate focus. Regarding handholding technique: I always roughly focus first (maybe using AF - with CF4 = 1, maybe manual focus) and then rock very slightly backwards and forwards until I get the focus where I want it and then shoot. BUT if you want a compact lens that doubles as a nice prime as well as a very good macro lens (albeit without the working distance for live insets) then for an 1.6x DSLR I would go for the 60mm. My conclusion: if you are shooting live insects then if you can afford it then go for the 180mm or else the 100mm. I sold the 60mm as I couldn't use it on the 5D. So I bought a 60mm EF-s and didn't look back: great little lens for macro and general work.īut then I lost my 20D (long story) but with the insurance was able to move up to a 5D and my 100mm came back into its own. of a lens or camera) and found that I was having to back too far away with an effective 160mm focal length. Used it a lot on film but then found it too long a focal length a lot of the time on the 1.6x DSLR (20D)- fine for 1:1 but I also wanted to take produst shots (e.g. For what its worth my 2cents worth: I have had the 100mm USM for some years (film and then digital). ![]()
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